Buffalo Restaurant Impresses New York Times Food Critic

Buffalo’s dining scene isn’t just about wings and beef on weck. It offers a wide range of cuisines to suit any palate, and one of the city’s restaurants has just received numerous accolades from the New York Times.

Culinary writer Michael Kaminer traveled to Las Puertas in the Five Points neighborhood of Buffalo and found himself impressed by the experience and talent of chef Victor Parra Gonzalez.

Inside the small restaurant, Gonzalez “marries earthy Mexican cuisine with rigorous French technique,” writes Kaminer. Here’s an excerpt from the review:

“His highly photogenic plates – succulent duck breast in a subtle pipian verde, translucent scallop aguachile, rich chicken confit with mole rojo – tender allusions to his homeland while showcasing his precision and wit. Oaxacan’s beloved street snack, gets luminous textural counterpoints based on radicchio and chayote. Notes of sesame and ginger emerge from the sweet and sour tuna ceviche with hibiscus aguachile and Lime curd. Buffalo even gets a sly nod in pan-seared cauliflower and pistachio crust; its frothy sauce combines Green Goddess dressing with a sideways cry to wings and ranch dip. “

See photos of the restaurant below, and read the full New York Times review.

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